Think leather is toxic? Think again!

By Florian Schrey – Account Director Brands & OEM’s

Let’s be honest: most people have no idea what ‘tanning leather’ really means. They hear the word and think of pollution and chemicals. So, when leather gets labelled as ‘unsustainable’ or ‘toxic’, it’s more often based on emotion than evidence.

Leather is always bad for the environment.

There’s a common belief that leather is an environmental villain. But in truth, leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, meaning it prevents millions of hides from going to waste. Without tanning, this organic and by the EU certified as biobased material would end up in landfills, emitting methane and CO² as it decays.

The issue isn’t leather itself, but how it’s made. When responsibly sourced and tanned using certified, transparent processes, leather can be part of a circular, sustainable system. That’s the kind of leather we believe in. That’s the kind of leather our partner tanneries make.

Leather is soaked in toxic chemicals.

Here’s the thing: all modern materials rely on chemistry, from the clothes we wear to the phones in our pockets. What matters is which chemicals are used and how they’re handled.

At Royal Smit & Zoon, we comply with the highest international standards (like ZDHC Level 3), ensuring that every formulation is safe for people and the environment. Our products come with full documentation, and our partners follow strict safety protocols from lab to leather. Chemical safety isn’t just a checkbox for us, it’s the core of our identity.

Chrome-tanned leather is dangerous.

This one’s tricky, because it’s rooted in confusion. Chromium III, the substance used in chrome tanning, is safe. It’s even a trace mineral your body needs. What consumers fear—Chromium VI—is a different compound entirely, and not used in the tanning process. Chrome tanning has been refined over decades and offers exceptional durability, water resistance, and longevity.

Still, we know innovation never sleeps. That’s why we’ve developed Zeology, a patented zeolite-based tanning method that offers chrome-level performance with even greater environmental benefits.

Plant-based or vegan leather must be better.

‘Vegan leather’ sounds cleaner. But many alternatives are made with polyurethane or PVC: fossil-based plastics that don’t biodegrade and are difficult to recycle. A material’s sustainability story must go beyond the label.

Zeology leather, for example, is biodegradable, compostable, and circular. It’s tanned without chrome, aldehyde, or heavy metals. When disposed of properly, it returns to the earth, nourishing the soil. That’s not just better for the planet, it’s better design.

Tanning is an outdated, mysterious process.

Tanning might sound like a medieval craft, but today, it’s an exact science, regulated, tested, and continuously evolving. It’s what gives leather its softness, flexibility, and resilience. Without tanning, hides would decompose. With the right chemistry, it becomes a material that can last for decades, Leather.

At Royal Smit & Zoon, we’ve been refining this process since the last century. And today, we’re leading its transformation, developing clean alternatives, pushing for full transparency, and partnering with brands that share our values.

Think leather is toxic? Think again!

It’s easy to write off leather when you don’t understand how it’s made. But when done right, leather isn’t the problem, it’s part of the solution. Durable, traceable, and circular leather has a role to play in a sustainable future.

So next time you hear that leather is toxic, think again. Then ask: where was it made, how was it tanned, and by whom?

That’s the questions that matters.