It is time to label water as a Strategic Priority in the leather industry

At the 7th Sustainable Leather Forum on September 8th, , Alliance France Cuir put water center stage. And this is exactly where it belongs. After all, water is fundamental to leather making. It serves both physical functions (working the material) and chemical ones (enabling reactions). It carries the agents and drives the processes that transform raw hides into lasting quality, while helping shape the unique character of every finished piece.

While the leather industry depends heavily on water, the setting of Paris’ Maison de la Chimie was a suitable reminder that innovation and chemistry are also at the heart of creating a sustainable leather value chain. Discussions ranged from water management and stewardship, to agricultural impacts and sustainability challenges in footwear. One message stood out: water is no longer an operational input; it is a strategic priority.

From utility to strategic resource

From utility to strategic resource

Traditionally, industries have treated water as a utility line: a cost to manage, recycle and optimize. That view no longer holds.

Everyone needs water. Households, industry, agriculture. Traditionally, the price of drinking water has been (relatively) low, and as a result the incentive to invest in water technology has often been lacking. As climate change accelerates and consumption continues to grow, water availability and quality are under increasing pressure. Against this backdrop, water is not “cheap and abundant”. Instead, it is scarce and contested.

Water is a strategic priority that must shape the way we innovate and collaborate. This shift is profound. For the leather industry, water consumption is not just a matter of efficiency or compliance. It is about resilience, license to exist, and long-term competitiveness.

Water use vs. consumption explained

Leather is an upcycled by-product of the food industry, moving through a complex value chain, including raw material sourcing, hide processing, manufacturing, retail and consumer use that can last for generations. Managing water therefore is not about individual operational excellence – it is about safeguarding the viability of the entire value chain.

A key distinction matters:

  • Water use is the total amount withdrawn for processes, whether it is for soaking hides, cleaning equipment, or cooling machinery much of which can be treated and returned to the environment (often cleaner than before!)
  • Water consumption is water that is withdrawn and not returned. Lost through evaporation, incorporation into products, or contamination.

It is consumption – not mere use – that creates the greatest stress on ecosystems. Smarter decisions depend on recognizing this difference.

Creating a water-efficient leather value chain, together

Creating a water-efficient leather value chain, together

The implication is clear: reducing water consumption must be a strategic priority across the leather value chain.

No single player can address it alone. Solving this challenge requires collaboration across brands, suppliers, tanneries, and chemical partners. Tanners may invest in advanced treatment plants, brands may push for responsible sourcing, and chemical suppliers like us may develop new solutions. But unless we work together, the impact will remain fragmented. Real progress depends on knowledge-sharing, aligned standards, and collaboration on technologies that reduce water consumption, while maintaining leather quality and durability.

Data-driven decisions

Solutions also need to be data-driven and equitable. Consumers may expect more than glossy claims: measurable transparent impact.

Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) can help, but only when applied wisely and interpreted within their full context. A single-category focus (for example, carbon footprint alone) risks distorting priorities. The industry needs understanding of multiple environmental impacts, to be considered alongside traditional procurement criteria (price, quality) to enable strategic, data-driven, balanced decision-making.

The way to go

The way forward is clear: treat water consumption not just as an input but as a shared strategic priority across the full supply chain.

At Royal Smit & Zoon, we know that every drop makes a difference. We are ready to collaborate on sustainable solutions that deliver performance while safeguarding environmental impact.

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